Take a moment and reflect on what you're about to be
doing; picture yourself describing this to your coworkers or family. We
aren't going to cover official safety rules here, we're assuming you've
read them and you understand them. Read
them now if you haven't, and if there's something you don't
understand about them find a marshal to explain. What we're trying to
impress on you is that thrown weapons is literally playing with knives
(or axes, etc.)
The most important thing overall in throwing
technique is consistency. As a beginner you have to train your body to
hold the weapon, throw it, and release it the same way every time at
the same distance in order to predict your results. Sound boring? Well
if you think of all the variables you can't control, you'll appreciate
these consistencies. Beginners achieve consistent throw quickly -
consistent release is the hard part. In its most basic form the release
is merely opening your hand with your wrist straight at the end of the
swing to allow the weapon to clear. There are throwers who flick
their wrists when they release, claiming it adds extra momentum or snap
to the throw. This may be true, but it's hard to be consistent with
every throw until you learn to control the snap. We teach without
snapping because most people would get frustrated and give up before
they learned the required control. For beginners snapping or flicking
the wrist is a no-no.
The only "must" with your stance is to face the
target squarely. Where archers stand sideways to the target, throwers
face the target straight on. After that it's mostly how you were taught
or personal preference.
Below you'll see some of the more common methods
marshals use to teach a beginner using a "standard" tomahawk first,
then other weapons. Read one method with axes all the way through first
before skipping to the knife section. Also be aware there are other
ways than what you see here, but like everything else in life there is
no one way to do something correctly.
Phil's No Throw Method:
This method teaches exactly which muscles to use and with how much
force to throw an ax one rotation. When you go through the steps take
note of your body positioning and how it feels. The first time you
actually
throw the ax everything will be the same except the
ax will be released.
Step 1:
Approach the target with ax in hand and rest the
blade on the
face of the target. Hold the ax so the end of the handle is flush with
the bottom of your fist.
Step 2:
Adjust distance so your back is straight, wrist is
square (note how Phil's forearm is 90 degrees from the ax handle) and
proper reach is achieved while
the blade still rests on the target face.
Step 3:
Bring ax straight back over the shoulder (like your
shoulder is
the center of a spinning vertical wheel.)
Step 4:
Swing the ax down into the target face with enough
force to stick
it in the target. The motion is very similar to hammering a nail into a
wall. The handle of the ax should be parallel to the target
face and pointing straight to the ground (six o'clock.) Note the
elevation of your arm, and how extended it is from your body (your
elbow should be bent just enough so it's not locked out straight.) When
you are throwing from the proper distance this is where your arm has to
be when you release the ax. In these pictures the target is too short
for the release to be shown correctly here.
Worry the ax out of the target face and repeat
steps 3 and 4
until you are confident you know how it feels to swing hard enough to
stick the ax. With this method your throwing arm should be the only
part of your body in motion. Now step back from the target to the
proper distance for
one
rotation (about twelve feet using a "standard" tomahawk) and assume the
proper stance for throwing. The only difference now is you release the
ax when your arm is in the correct position (hammering a nail in a
wall.)
The Step Method:
Although less variables makes the weapon easier to
control some people
prefer to step when throwing, it seems to put all the pieces together
into a rhythm. Use the same technique as Phil's No-Throw Method except
a
step is worked into the throw. Throwing at longer distances may require
a step also, to gain momentum for the weapon (see Multiple Rotations in
Advanced Throwing Technique.)
Knives:
Now that you've learned how to get an ax to stick,
lets talk about knives. Most of what was shown above carries directly
over into knife throwing, so much of it will not be repeated. If
something is unclear, reviewing the ax discussions will help. As stated
in Types of Weapons a beginner should use the heaviest knife they can
handle. A heavier knife is more forgiving of an improper throw, and is
less likely to change its flight path on a windy day.
Since knives have been bashed so bad until now, here
are some positive things:
The most popular image for knife throwing is our
hero holding his knife by the blade. This is done, but will be covered
in Advanced Throwing Technique. For now we'll start with holding it by
the handle. Apply the same technique for knives as you did for ax
throwing (with or without a step) and note that a lighter weapon will
rotate faster than a heavy one so you'll probably want to start on the
ten foot line (the closest you can be to the target in the East Kingdom
of the SCA.) There are two ways to hold your wrist when throwing by the
handle. The first way is to keep your wrist straight as you did for
axes (the knife does 1 1/4 rotations at the ten foot line.) The second
way is to lock your wrist out all the way so the blade is pointing at
the target at release (the knife does 1 full rotation.) Keeping the
wrist straight with knives can be difficult (you may either snap the
wrist or not maintain the 90 degree angle) so locking the wrist out
prevents this from happening. See the picture below showing both
grips.
Spears:
Step 1:
Find the balance point on the spear while you rest
it on your palm with your thumb away from the point.
Step 2:
Hold it so as you throw the spear it should stay
parallel to the ground, your wrist working as a pivot. At release you
should only be holding the spear by your thumb and index finger.
Step 3:
Follow through after release.
Most spears need to thrown into soft targets made of
straw bales, the example shown here is a rake handle with rebar used as
a point. This spear is cheap to make, and certainly will last if made
well.
Javelin throwers from high school and
college do this differently, but they are the "first timers" with the
most experience we get at the range. By all means watch how they throw
a spear, and never be afraid to ask them to show you how they do it and
why.
Bad habits to avoid:
Examples of improper throws:
Tips and tricks:
Another good example of a bad throw:
This is a french hawk that stuck in the center of the target. "Excellent, job well done," you may say. Then you realize it's stuck by the handle. The wood handle, no less. I have two theories: Now that you've seen some of the ways to throw,
go
find a marshal and play. After some practice (one good afternoon of
throwing could do it) you'll notice you can tell at the actual moment
of release whether or not the weapon will stick. When you can do that:
congratulations! You've just reached a milestone in thrown weapons. You
have accomplished the basic skills needed to do any other kind of
throwing. Minimal practice will maintain that level of ability, but the
next new thrower will also meet that in an afternoon. Hopefully we have
you hooked on this now, and you'll push your abilities on your own.